FALA The Natural Fabric Index

Fabric passport

Fabric passports

Eight materials on one page. Five natural and regenerated cellulose fibres, plus a synthetic one for comparison.

The ratings are relative tendencies on a scale of 1 to 5, not measurements. Read the methodology before choosing by them.

Fabric Passport No. FALA-01

Egyptian cotton

Gossypium barbadense

Origin
Egypt, mainly the Nile Delta
Fibre
Long-staple and extra-long-staple cotton (Giza varieties)
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Smooth and fine, with a subtle lustre when spun into a fine yarn
Breathability
High – the cellulose fibre absorbs moisture and breathes well
Durability
High – long fibres make a yarn that is both fine and strong
Best for
Bed linen, shirts, towels
Care
Usually machine washable; depends on the weave, finish and dye – follow the label

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

An Egyptian origin does not by itself guarantee extra-long staple: Egypt also grows long-staple varieties. What matters is the variety, the yarn and the weave.

P<FALA<EGYPTIAN<COTTON<<GOSSYPIUM<BARBADENSE<<<<
FALA01<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-02

Pima and Supima

Gossypium barbadense

Origin
USA – Arizona, California, New Mexico, Texas (Supima); Pima is grown elsewhere too
Fibre
Extra-long-staple cotton (American Pima)
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Smooth, soft, strong
Breathability
High
Durability
High
Best for
T-shirts and jersey, shirts, bed linen
Care
Usually machine washable; follow the label

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

The same botanical species as Egyptian cotton. Supima is a trademark for American Pima cotton grown in the USA.

P<FALA<PIMA<SUPIMA<<GOSSYPIUM<BARBADENSE<<<<<<
FALA02<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-03

Regular cotton

Gossypium hirsutum

Origin
Worldwide – most of the world’s production
Fibre
Upland-type fibre – shorter than the long-staple species
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Pleasant and more matt; softness depends heavily on the yarn and finish
Breathability
High
Durability
Medium
Best for
Everyday clothing, bed linen, towels
Care
Usually machine washable; may shrink at high temperatures and in the tumble dryer

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

The most widely grown type of cotton. Well-made regular cotton can feel nicer than badly made “premium” cotton.

P<FALA<COTTON<UPLAND<<GOSSYPIUM<HIRSUTUM<<<<<<
FALA03<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-04

Organic cotton

Gossypium (various species)

Origin
Largest share: India (50% in the 2019/20 season, according to Textile Exchange)
Fibre
Cotton from certified organic farming – staple length depends on the variety
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
The same as regular cotton of the same variety and processing
Breathability
High
Durability
Medium – depends on the variety and yarn
Best for
Clothing and bed linen, where how the cotton is grown matters to you
Care
As for regular cotton

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

“Organic” describes the farming method and the certification, not the properties of the fibre. That is why it scores the same as regular cotton.

P<FALA<ORGANIC<COTTON<<CERTIFIED<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
FALA04<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-05

Linen

Linum usitatissimum

Origin
Europe – mainly France, Belgium and the Netherlands
Fibre
Bast fibre from the stem of the flax plant
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Crisp and firm at first, softening with every wash; a characteristic irregular texture
Breathability
Very high
Durability
Very high – one of the strongest natural fibres
Best for
Summer clothing, bed linen, tea towels, tablecloths
Care
Machine washable; do not over-dry, iron while damp

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

Creases a great deal – a flaw to some, character to others. Stonewashed linen is soft from the start.

P<FALA<LINEN<<LINUM<USITATISSIMUM<<<<<<<<<<<<<
FALA05<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-06

Bamboo viscose

Origin
Cellulose from bamboo, chemically processed into viscose
Fibre
Viscose – regenerated cellulose; none of the original plant’s properties remain in it
Type
regenerated cellulose fibre
Feel
Very smooth, fluid and cool
Breathability
High
Durability
Lower – the fibre is weaker when wet
Best for
Pyjamas, underwear, drapey jersey
Care
Gentle wash at a lower temperature; easily loses its shape and shrinks

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

In the EU the label should say “viscose”. Antibacterial claims made for bamboo do not carry over to viscose.

P<FALA<VISCOSE<<BAMBOO<REGENERATED<CELLULOSE<<
FALA06<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-07

Lyocell

Origin
Cellulose (most often from wood), processed with a solvent
Fibre
Regenerated cellulose fibre made by a solvent-spinning process
Type
regenerated cellulose fibre
Feel
Smooth and soft, with a gentle lustre
Breathability
High
Durability
Medium – stronger than viscose, especially when wet
Best for
Shirts, dresses, bed linen, blends with cotton
Care
Gentle wash; rough handling can make it fibrillate (develop a fuzzy, pilled surface)

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

Lyocell is not a natural fibre in the way cotton or linen are – its raw material is natural cellulose, but the fibre itself is made in a factory.

P<FALA<LYOCELL<<REGENERATED<CELLULOSE<<<<<<<<<
FALA07<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-08

Polyester

Origin
Synthetic polymer, usually made from petroleum-based raw materials
Fibre
Synthetic polyester fibre (most often PET)
Type
synthetic fibre
Feel
Depends on how it is made – from smooth to “plasticky”; microfibre tends to be soft
Breathability
Low – absorbs almost no moisture
Durability
Very high
Best for
Sportswear, fillings, blends with cotton for crease resistance
Care
Undemanding; take care with a hot iron

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

In this index it serves as a point of comparison. Many people find it warmer and “sweatier” against the skin because it does not absorb moisture.