Section
Weaves
The same fibre, a different interlacing – a different fabric. We draw every weave exactly as a weaver sees it: warp vertical, weft horizontal.
For each weave you will find two pictures. The larger one shows how the threads lie in the fabric: the dark vertical threads are the warp, the light horizontal ones the weft. The smaller grid is the weave draft – a weaver’s shorthand in which a filled square means “warp on top”. Colour is not the only distinguishing mark: the warp is always vertical and the weft always horizontal.
Plain weave
tabby
The foundation of all weaves: the thread goes alternately over and under. The tightest interlacing, a matt surface. In cotton it gives percale, poplin and batiste; almost all ancient Egyptian linen is in this weave.
Percale
plain weave, dense
A dense plain weave from fine combed yarn, typical of bed linen. Crisp, matt and cool.
Sateen
4/1 satin weave
The thread floats over four threads and under one; the interlacing points are scattered. Smooth, lustrous and fluid, but less resistant to abrasion.
Twill
2/2 twill
The interlacing points move along by one thread in every row, creating a diagonal ladder. At the same thread density, twill is softer and drapes better than plain weave, and hides stains better. Gabardine and flannel belong here.
3/1 warp-faced twill
denim twill
The warp dominates the face. Most denim is woven in this weave: blue warp on top, undyed weft on the back.
Jacquard and damask
jacquard
A jacquard mechanism lifts each warp thread individually, so the weave can change point by point to form a pattern. Damask alternates warp-faced and weft-faced satin – the pattern shows only through the direction of the sheen. Irish and Flemish linen damask has a long tradition.
Basket weave
2/2 hopsack
A plain weave in which threads work together in pairs. Softer and looser than plain weave; typical of Oxford cloth and some linen fabrics.
Muslin
plain weave, open
A light, loosely woven cotton in plain weave. Breathable and soft; in bed linen it is used mainly in multi-layer (gauze) versions.