FALA The Natural Fabric Index

Section

Cotton

Fibre from the seeds of the cotton plant. The most widely used natural fabric in the world – and the one where a single invisible figure decides everything: staple length.

Egyptian cotton

Gossypium barbadense, Egypt

Cotton grown in Egypt, mainly in the Nile Delta. Most Giza varieties produce extra-long staple, some “only” long staple. Origin can be verified through a licence for the Egyptian Cotton™ trademark.

How to tell genuine Egyptian cotton

Pima

Gossypium barbadense, the USA and other countries

Extra-long-staple cotton of the same species as Egyptian cotton. Named after the Indigenous people of Arizona who supported its experimental cultivation in the early 20th century.

Supima

trademark, USA

A registered trademark for American Pima cotton grown in the USA. The association that manages it verifies origin with forensic fibre testing.

Organic cotton

a way of growing, not a species

Cotton from certified organic farming. It changes nothing about how the fabric feels; it changes how the cotton is grown and how the chain is checked. Look for a certificate (GOTS, for example) and its grade.

Long staple

29–35 mm

In the classification of American cotton, fibre roughly 1.13 to 1.38 inches long. It allows a finer, smoother yarn than regular Upland cotton.

Extra-long staple

ELS, 35 mm and above

Fibre at least 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) long, as defined by the ICAC. Typical of most varieties of Gossypium barbadense – Egyptian cotton and Pima.

Cotton staple lengths drawn to the same scale Upland fibres measure roughly 22 to 24 millimetres, American Pima roughly 32 to 40 millimetres. The ICAC threshold for extra-long staple is 35 millimetres. 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 mm ELS threshold 35 mm Upland (regular cotton) approx. 22–24 mm American Pima (ELS) approx. 32–40 mm
The solid line shows the lower bound, the dashed box the range. Linen’s technical fibres are an order of magnitude longer and would not fit on this scale. Sources: Cotton Incorporated (Classification of Cotton); ICAC, as summarised in Staple (textiles).

Sources

  1. Cotton Incorporated – The Classification of Cotton
  2. Staple (textiles) – USDA categories and the ICAC threshold
  3. Egyptian Cotton Association
  4. Supima (Wikipedia)
  5. GOTS – Labelling

Last checked 12 October 2026. How we correct errors