FALA The Natural Fabric Index

Care · Linen

How to wash linen

Linen isn't fussy. It has just two weak spots – overheating and sharp creases – and once you know them, it will last for decades.

FALA Updated 2 min read

Linen plain weave with the characteristic slubs in the yarn. Washing gradually softens the surface.

First, one honest sentence: the label on the product always comes first. Linen is dyed, finished and blended with other fibres in many different ways, and the manufacturer knows what its fabric can take. The advice below consists of general principles that apply to most linen textiles.

Before the first wash

New linen that has not been pre-washed usually shrinks slightly in its first wash. If you are sewing from fabric bought by the metre, wash it before cutting in the same way you will wash the finished item. Stonewashed linen shrinks less.

Washing

  1. Temperature according to the label. White and undyed linen can usually take a higher temperature than coloured linen. If in doubt, choose the lower one.
  2. Room in the drum. An overloaded machine creates sharp creases that are hard to iron out later and put strain on the fibre in one place.
  3. A mild detergent, no chlorine bleach. Chlorine bleach weakens the fibre.
  4. No need for fabric conditioner. Linen softens with washing on its own; conditioner can reduce its absorbency.
  5. A lower spin speed reduces creasing.

Drying

The biggest mistake is to over-dry linen. Bone-dry, overheated linen fibre becomes brittle and loses its elasticity. If you use a tumble dryer, choose a low setting and take the linen out while it is still slightly damp. Line drying is the gentlest: shake it out, straighten the seams and hang it up.

Ironing

Linen is easiest to iron damp. Set the temperature according to the symbol on the label. Iron dark colours on the reverse to avoid shiny patches. If you like a "lived-in" look, don't iron at all – linen shaken out and hung up while slightly damp will straighten itself.

Stains

The sooner the better. First rinse the stain with cold water from the reverse rather than rubbing. Never use hot water on protein stains (blood, milk) – the heat "bakes" them in. For greasy stains, detergent worked into the dry stain before washing helps. On coloured linen, test any stain remover on a hidden spot first.

Storage

Store linen clean, dry and loosely folded, in a breathable cover or in a cupboard. Fold it differently from time to time so that creases don't always form in the same place.

We explain what each symbol on the label means in Care label symbols.

Fabric passport

Fabric Passport No. FALA-05

Linen

Linum usitatissimum

Origin
Europe – mainly France, Belgium and the Netherlands
Fibre
Bast fibre from the stem of the flax plant
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Crisp and firm at first, softening with every wash; a characteristic irregular texture
Breathability
Very high
Durability
Very high – one of the strongest natural fibres
Best for
Summer clothing, bed linen, tea towels, tablecloths
Care
Machine washable; do not over-dry, iron while damp

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

Creases a great deal – a flaw to some, character to others. Stonewashed linen is soft from the start.

P<FALA<LINEN<<LINUM<USITATISSIMUM<<<<<<<<<<<<<
FALA05<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<

Compared

Relative tendencies on a 1–5 scale (methodology). Every value is given as a number as well as dots – never by colour or shape alone.
PropertyLinenRegular cotton
Softness 2/5 3/5
Breathability 5/5 4/5
Warmth 1/5 2/5
Drying speed 4/5 2/5
Durability 5/5 3/5
Easy care 3/5 4/5
Tendency to crease 5/5 3/5

Open in the interactive comparison

Care

  • Wash with similar colours and do not overload the drum – linen needs room, otherwise sharp creases form.
  • Take it out as soon as the programme finishes, shake it out and hang it up.
  • Iron while slightly damp; avoid pressing folds in the same place every time.
  • Store loosely folded, not in plastic.

The label on the individual product always takes precedence.

Sources

  1. ISO 3758:2023 – Textiles: Care labelling code using symbols (scope of the standard)

Last checked . First published 12 October 2026. Editorial policy · Report an error