FALA The Natural Fabric Index

Cotton · Organic

Organic cotton: what the label means

“Organic” describes how the cotton was grown – not how it feels. And the word on the label is only worth something if certification stands behind it.

FALA Updated 2 min read

Botanically, organic cotton is the same cotton. What changes is how it is grown and how its processing is checked.

Organic cotton is cotton grown according to the rules of organic farming and verified by a certification body. It tells you about the way it was grown and about checks along the supply chain – not about staple length, softness or durability. Short-staple organic cotton will feel just like short-staple regular cotton.

That is why it has the same ratings as regular cotton in our fabric passport. That is not a reservation – it is accuracy.

GOTS and its grades

The best-known standard for finished textiles is the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Unlike certification of the field alone, it also covers processing: spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing and making up. GOTS distinguishes two main label grades:

LabelMinimum share of certified fibres
organic / organic in-conversion95% or more
made with x% organic / in-conversion materials70 to 94%

If a product carries only the words "organic cotton", with no logo and no certificate number, there is nothing for you to verify.

How much there is

Organic cotton is still a small segment. According to the Textile Exchange report (2021), it made up almost one per cent of the world's cotton harvest in the 2019/20 season. India grew half of it, followed by China, Kyrgyzstan, Turkey, Tanzania, Tajikistan and the USA. You will find more recent figures in Textile Exchange's current reports; we give the ones we were able to verify.

What to look for

  1. The certification logo (GOTS, for example) and the grade of the label.
  2. A licence number or certification body that can be looked up.
  3. For blends: what share is organic and what the rest is.

If softness and durability are what you are after, the deciding factors remain staple length, the yarn and the weave.

Fabric passport

Fabric Passport No. FALA-04

Organic cotton

Gossypium (various species)

Origin
Largest share: India (50% in the 2019/20 season, according to Textile Exchange)
Fibre
Cotton from certified organic farming – staple length depends on the variety
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
The same as regular cotton of the same variety and processing
Breathability
High
Durability
Medium – depends on the variety and yarn
Best for
Clothing and bed linen, where how the cotton is grown matters to you
Care
As for regular cotton

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

“Organic” describes the farming method and the certification, not the properties of the fibre. That is why it scores the same as regular cotton.

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FALA04<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-03

Regular cotton

Gossypium hirsutum

Origin
Worldwide – most of the world’s production
Fibre
Upland-type fibre – shorter than the long-staple species
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Pleasant and more matt; softness depends heavily on the yarn and finish
Breathability
High
Durability
Medium
Best for
Everyday clothing, bed linen, towels
Care
Usually machine washable; may shrink at high temperatures and in the tumble dryer

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

The most widely grown type of cotton. Well-made regular cotton can feel nicer than badly made “premium” cotton.

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FALA03<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<

Compared

Relative tendencies on a 1–5 scale (methodology). Every value is given as a number as well as dots – never by colour or shape alone.
PropertyOrganic cottonRegular cottonEgyptian cotton
Softness 3/5 3/5 5/5
Breathability 4/5 4/5 4/5
Warmth 2/5 2/5 2/5
Drying speed 2/5 2/5 2/5
Durability 3/5 3/5 4/5
Easy care 4/5 4/5 4/5
Tendency to crease 3/5 3/5 3/5

Open in the interactive comparison

Origin

India and other countries

According to Textile Exchange, India grew half of the world's organic cotton in the 2019/20 season.

More in Origins

Care

  • Care is the same as for regular cotton – follow the label.

The label on the individual product always takes precedence.

Sources

  1. GOTS – Labelling (label grades)
  2. Textile Exchange 2021 Organic Cotton Market Report – as reported by Texdata (2019/20 season)

Last checked . First published 12 October 2026. Editorial policy · Report an error