FALA The Natural Fabric Index

Glossary · Staple length

Staple length: why it matters

The most important property of cotton almost never appears on the label. It is the length of the individual fibre.

FALA Updated 2 min read

Cotton staple lengths drawn to the same scale Upland fibres measure roughly 22 to 24 millimetres, American Pima roughly 32 to 40 millimetres. The ICAC threshold for extra-long staple is 35 millimetres. 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 mm ELS threshold 35 mm Upland (regular cotton) approx. 22–24 mm American Pima (ELS) approx. 32–40 mm
The solid line shows the lower bound, the dashed box the range. Linen’s technical fibres are an order of magnitude longer and would not fit on this scale. Sources: Cotton Incorporated (Classification of Cotton); ICAC, as summarised in Staple (textiles).

Every cotton thread is made of thousands of short fibres held together by twist. The longer the fibres, the more they overlap one another and the stronger and smoother the thread can be – even when it is very fine.

Categories

The classification of American cotton distinguishes these staple-length groups:

CategoryInchesMillimetres
Very shortunder 0.25under 6.4
Short0.25 – 0.946.4 – 23.9
Medium0.94 – 1.1324 – 29
Long1.13 – 1.3829 – 35
Extra longover 1.38over 35

The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) sets the threshold for extra-long staple at 1 3/8 inches, or 35 mm.

In practice: according to Cotton Incorporated, regular Upland cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) has a staple of roughly 7/8 to 15/16 of an inch, American Pima (Gossypium barbadense) 1¼ to 1 9/16 inches. Egyptian cotton belongs to the same species as Pima; most of its varieties are extra-long staple, some are long staple.

What length changes

  • Fineness of the yarn. Long fibre can be spun into a finer thread without losing strength.
  • Smoothness. Fewer fibre ends stick out of the thread, so the fabric is smoother and less "hairy".
  • Pilling. Short fibres work loose more easily and tangle into pills.
  • Strength and lifespan. A longer overlap between fibres makes a stronger thread that survives more washing.

Why you won't find it on the label

Staple length is measured on raw cotton before processing. On a finished product it can only be measured in a laboratory, and indirectly. That is why packaging shows the origin ("Egyptian", "pima") or the thread count instead. Both are only indirect and sometimes misleading signals. The best guide remains a verified origin trademark and a straight answer from the manufacturer.

Fabric passport

Fabric Passport No. FALA-01

Egyptian cotton

Gossypium barbadense

Origin
Egypt, mainly the Nile Delta
Fibre
Long-staple and extra-long-staple cotton (Giza varieties)
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Smooth and fine, with a subtle lustre when spun into a fine yarn
Breathability
High – the cellulose fibre absorbs moisture and breathes well
Durability
High – long fibres make a yarn that is both fine and strong
Best for
Bed linen, shirts, towels
Care
Usually machine washable; depends on the weave, finish and dye – follow the label

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

An Egyptian origin does not by itself guarantee extra-long staple: Egypt also grows long-staple varieties. What matters is the variety, the yarn and the weave.

P<FALA<EGYPTIAN<COTTON<<GOSSYPIUM<BARBADENSE<<<<
FALA01<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<
Fabric Passport No. FALA-03

Regular cotton

Gossypium hirsutum

Origin
Worldwide – most of the world’s production
Fibre
Upland-type fibre – shorter than the long-staple species
Type
natural plant fibre
Feel
Pleasant and more matt; softness depends heavily on the yarn and finish
Breathability
High
Durability
Medium
Best for
Everyday clothing, bed linen, towels
Care
Usually machine washable; may shrink at high temperatures and in the tumble dryer

Relative tendencies how we rate

Softness
Breathability
Warmth
Drying speed
Durability
Easy care
Tendency to crease

The most widely grown type of cotton. Well-made regular cotton can feel nicer than badly made “premium” cotton.

P<FALA<COTTON<UPLAND<<GOSSYPIUM<HIRSUTUM<<<<<<
FALA03<<SK<<2026<<NATURAL<FABRIC<INDEX<<<<<<

Compared

Relative tendencies on a 1–5 scale (methodology). Every value is given as a number as well as dots – never by colour or shape alone.
PropertyEgyptian cottonPima / SupimaRegular cotton
Softness 5/5 5/5 3/5
Breathability 4/5 4/5 4/5
Warmth 2/5 2/5 2/5
Drying speed 2/5 2/5 2/5
Durability 4/5 4/5 3/5
Easy care 4/5 4/5 4/5
Tendency to crease 3/5 3/5 3/5

Open in the interactive comparison

Care

  • Short fibres work loose from the surface of a fabric sooner – remove pills with a fabric shaver rather than pulling them off.

The label on the individual product always takes precedence.

Sources

  1. Cotton Incorporated – The Classification of Cotton
  2. Staple (textiles) – USDA categories and the ICAC threshold

Last checked . First published 12 October 2026. Editorial policy · Report an error