Egyptian cotton: varieties, fibre and the origin of the name

Egyptian cotton is cotton grown in Egypt. That sounds trivial, but it matters more than you might think: the name tells you about origin, not about properties. Its reputation, however, was built on a particular botanical species and particular varieties that produce exceptionally long, fine and strong fibre.

The species behind the long staple

Almost all the world's cotton comes from two species. Gossypium hirsutum, known in the trade as Upland, accounts for the overwhelming majority of production; according to Cotton Incorporated its fibres measure roughly 7/8 to 15/16 of an inch, or about 22 to 24 mm. Gossypium barbadense is the species of both Egyptian cotton and American Pima; Pima fibres measure 1¼ to 1 9/16 inches, or roughly 32 to 40 mm.

The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) classes as extra-long staple (ELS) any fibre of at least 1 3/8 inches, or 35 mm. Most varieties of G. barbadense exceed that threshold, but some are "only" long staple.

Longer fibre can be spun into a finer yarn with fewer fibre ends sticking out of its surface. The result is a smoother, stronger and softer fabric that pills less. We explain this in detail in the glossary entry Staple length.

The Giza varieties

Egyptian varieties are named Giza plus a number, and not all of them are extra-long staple. The overview the Egyptian Cotton Association published in November 2025 lists Giza 92 and Giza 96 as ELS; Giza 86, Giza 94 and Giza 97 from the Delta and Giza 95 from Upper Egypt as long staple (LS). The mix of varieties changes from season to season, which is why we have dated this overview.

The practical consequence: a product can legitimately be made from Egyptian cotton without being made from extra-long-staple fibre.

A short history

• 1821 – according to the Egyptian Cotton Association, a Frenchman named Jumel began growing fine long-staple cotton in Egypt from plants he had found in a Cairo garden.
• 1861–1865 – the American Civil War cut off cotton supplies from the American South and European mills turned to Egypt. According to the ECA, exports rose from 596,000 kantars in 1861 to 2 million in 1865.
• 1869 – the Suez Canal shortened the voyage to Europe.
• 1970 – the Aswan Dam tamed the annual Nile flood and made cultivation more stable.
• 2000 – the Egyptian Cotton™ trademark was created to distinguish genuine cotton from falsely labelled cotton.
• 2005 – an Egyptian ministry established the association that manages and licenses the trademark (today the Egyptian Cotton Association).

What this means when you buy

"Egyptian cotton" on the label is a good start, not a guarantee. Ask about the trademark licence, the type of yarn and the weave. We set out how to check, step by step, in How to tell genuine Egyptian cotton.